A Pilgrimage to Babylon by the Bay – Part 4

San Francisco Dining

San Francisco is literally awash with places to eat and it is said that if you started today to try and eat everywhere that you would never finish due to the openings and closings of restaurants throughout town.  I don’t think there is a cuisine or style of food in the world that you can’t find there from the most exquisitely expensive plate that will leave you hungry and annoyed to the most rib-sticking barbecue for under $20.  Food always plays a huge part in my memories of places I have lived or have known well and San Francisco is no exception to that rule.  The places I tend to love reflect my relative poverty at the time in which I could explore and find places to love that I could also afford.  I still find myself drawn to Little Henry’s Italian, located in the newly, to me at least, christened Little Saigon neighborhood at Post and Larkin Streets.  Still run by the same Korean family that owned it for years before I found it, it was a treat to me to eat there because half a chicken, with pasta, bread, and salad was under $8 and today is still under $10.  “Henry” seems to remember me and every year points out that it has been a long time since I was in to eat.  I have told him that I moved to Georgia, but while he may remember my face he seems to fail to remember that.  And you know the food is good because there is almost always a cop eating there, and you know they know the best locations on their beat to eat.  The food will be excellent, but don’t expect too much from the décor of plastic red and white check tablecloths and open kitchen.  Count on the neighborhood to supply entertainment in the form of the transsexual prostitutes and heroin addicts (often the same people and generally harmless if colorful).

http://www.yelp.com/biz/little-henrys-italian-food-san-francisco-2

I also have a crazy fondness for Pho Clement, located as the name implies on Clement Street, well beyond the parameters normally visited by tourists.  But Clement Street, with its eclectic mix of book shops, Asian restaurants and grocery stores and the odd unexpected treat of a house wares or aquarium supplier is one of the most fantastic streets in all of San Francisco in my opinion.  At it is super easy to get to from downtown.  Just jump on the number 2 bus and in a matter of 30 minutes at tops, you will discover a surprisingly normal and almost suburban side of City life that you didn’t know existed.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/pho-clement-san-francisco

I also hanker for a rib-sticking lunch at Tommy’s Joynt, located at O’Farrell and Van Ness Avenue (US 101).  It is dark and you won’t see much of the waitress, but the price (cash only) really can’t be beat for thick and rich deli sandwiches served cafeteria style accompanied by self-serve dill pickles and the largest assortment of world beers in all of San Francisco.

http://www.tommysjoynt.com/

For some of the most delicately delicious Japanese soups and noodles, including udon and soba, you can’t miss with Zaoh Restaurant on Mission at 11th Street and South Van Ness Avenue.  You may have to wait since there are no more than a dozen tables and most of those are family style seating.  If you are really lucky, you will be served by the same giggling waitress, as we were, that was serving there when I lived in the city and worked a night job at a bar just several doors up the street.

http://www.zaohsf.com/

When you leave the bar of your choosing and are really hungry for either pancakes or a fantastic blue cheese burger, you can’t go wrong with Orphan Andy’s at 17th Street, Castro Street, and Market.  Conveniently, the F street car line which runs late at night, stops right outside so you can’t miss it.  The staff is as colorful as the patrons and this place is usually hopping, so expect a wait, especially late at night when it is the only thing open for blocks on end.  The food is good and fast and the wait won’t kill you.  There are only 2 tables, 4 booths, and about 8 counter seats, so if you don’t have to wait, count your blessings.  This place has been around for over 30 years, so they must be doing something right.  Keep an eye out for the stark naked guys walking past the plate glass windows at about 1:30am on a weekend.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/orphan-andys-san-francisco

A bit farther up Castro Street is the Cove Café, a great place for a leisurely breakfast amidst the community.  Don’t expect too much from the food, it is pretty basic, edible but not fantastic, but expect to find out a great deal about who used to live in the neighborhood amidst changes that boggle even my mind on a once a year visit.  This place is a holdout against the gentrification and corporate take-over of the neighborhood (Pottery Barn…WTF?) and this is reflected in the mostly older and disease worn faces you will see amongst your fellow diners.  And if you go in the morning, most likely the bead lady will be stringing along her latest creations at the table closest to the cash register.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/cove-cafe-san-francisco

Finally, before heading to either Beach Blanket Babylon or on a trek up Telegraph Hill to take in the views from the base of Coit Tower, stop at the tiny Italian deli, whose name totally escapes me, on Stockton just up from the border of Washington Square Park at Union.  The sandwiches made fresh from locally produced Molinari’s meats can’t be beat.  If you want to take the Molinari’s home with you, just head up Columbus and visit the mother ship itself.  You can’t miss it, so close to City Lights Bookstore, the infamous home of the banned books of Alan Ginsberg, a perfect place to Howl.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/molinari-delicatessen-san-francisco

http://www.molinarisalame.com/

http://www.citylights.com/

http://sprayberry.tripod.com/poems/howl.txt