When a mildly obsessive-compulsive person, like maybe me, decides to travel through all 50 states of the United States, and once he has achieved this goal (Tim still lacks Hawaii, but I have been there twice and we are working on getting Tim there), then it would make sense, in a totally OCD sort of way, for them to consider the extra-territorial possessions, commonwealths, incorporated and unincorporated territories of the United States as well. Perhaps to the surprise of some, if not many of you, there are actually quite a lot of those floating about, mostly in the Pacific. However, two of them are located closer to home base in Georgia, just 4 hours by Boeing 757 south of Atlanta in the Caribbean Sea, being of course Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands.
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A Bit of History on the Topic
In case you were wondering, yes, it is necessary to be clear about the US Virgin Islands because once upon a time, Puerto Rico and its attendant islands (Vieques, Culebra, Mona, and Desecheo) were known as the Spanish Virgin Islands, and to this day, there are the British Virgin Islands just to the immediate east and north of the US version.
Once upon a time we took Puerto Rico from the Spanish in that tiff we call the Spanish-American War. Remember the Maine? If you don’t then you don’t know even the first thing about the war which started in Havana harbor with the mysterious explosion of the warship Maine. Most mysterious about it is whether or not US agents exploded it as a pretense to go to war with Spain, which was very weak at this point and most decidedly did not want to go to war with the US. What we wanted from Spain was territory, and territory we gained, in the form of Puerto Rico, Guam, and the Philippines. The latter for many years, up until after World War II in fact, was governed by the United States directly as a territory, then later as a Commonwealth, and even after independence it was arguably run as a US territory with heavy involvement and interference, not to mention large military bases. We briefly administered Cuba, but for long term control turned it over to a series of brutal dictators under the control of the US sugar companies. The revolt led by Fidel Castro struck a blow to American dominance in the Western Hemisphere; a policy laid out long ago as the Monroe Doctrine and stubbornly clung to even to this day. One relatively small island’s ability to thwart our imperial control planted deep seeds of frustration and hatred that bloom to this day. Well, that and a lot of the former ruling class of Cuba moved to Florida where they continue to hate Castro, and continue to vote as a block in this crucial swing state.
The US Virgin Islands we gained by purchasing them from Denmark and we used them primarily as a coaling station until such time as coal powered ships were no longer used, at which point they languished until the advent of mass tourism.
Where Else Does the United States Have Territory?
For the skinny on all the other dependencies, territories, etc of the United States, take a look at this list:
Incorporated unorganized territories:
Palmyra Atoll (privately owned by the Nature Conservancy and administered by the Department of the Interior)
Unincorporated organized territories:
Guam
Northern Mariana Islands (commonwealth)
Puerto Rico (commonwealth)
United States Virgin Islands
Unincorporated unorganized territories:
American Samoa
Wake Island, inhabited by civilian contractors only
Midway Islands, inhabited by caretakers
Johnston Atoll, uninhabited
Baker Island, uninhabited
Howland Island, uninhabited
Jarvis Island, uninhabited
Kingman Reef, uninhabited
Bajo Nuevo Bank, uninhabited (claimed by Colombia and Jamaica)
Serranilla Bank, uninhabited (claimed by Colombia)
Navassa Island, uninhabited (claimed by Haiti)
Many of these islands have had military uses in the past or were refueling stations prior to the advent of the long haul aircraft of today. The majority are uninhabited and are probably uninhabitable because of a lack of fresh water. While some were gained in war, many others were gained through the provisions of the 19th century Guano Act which said in essence that any American ship, usually whalers, could lay claim to any island that wasn’t otherwise claimed by another power if it contained sufficient guano, or bird shit, for phosphate mining purposes. Most of the islands thus claimed didn’t have much of any guano on them and apparently ship’s captains didn’t know shit about bird shit. Today, many of the uninhabited Pacific Ocean islands are desired by the far-flung island nation of Kiribati (Ki-ri-bass) because having these islands would increase the Exclusive Economic Zone, or those areas of the ocean that foreign fishing vessels, primarily those of Japan, could only fish after paying a fee to the owner. Fees from the EEZ are about the only source of income Kiribati has since most of its hundreds of islands are also uninhabited and not habitable due to a lack of fresh water, and most all are only a few feet above sea level meaning that with the continuation of global warming they will disappear under the sea. But the i-Kiribati, the citizens of Kiribati (which you can become easily for a one-time payment of roughly $10,000), have a plan. They have already negotiated to occupy an otherwise uninhabited island owned by Fiji.
But I digress as I so often do. There are some populated US possessions, and that means that there are people living under control of the US government who are not citizens (American Samoa) and who despite our championing of democracy do not have full participation in the selection of the government that rules them (none of the above listed areas can vote in presidential elections and none have voting representation in Congress). They do have locally elected governors who make most of the decisions affecting their residents and not all US labor and environmental laws apply, but most of these people do have to pay the Federal government for things like Social Security and Medicare, but in return are not eligible for the full benefits that we residents of actual states receive and they are subject to most overarching Federal laws including customs and immigration restrictions. This makes it difficult in American Samoa if family lives in the independent section of Samoa since the only legal means of transit involves flying first to Hawaii, then to Los Angeles, then back through New Zealand all to satisfy Homeland Security immigration and transit requirements. Because the United States rules people who do not have a participative voice in government in this way, among others, the United Nations lists the United States as an ongoing colonial power and advocates, at least theoretically, for the clarification of the status of these territories and either the full independence or enfranchisement of the people who live there.
How Other Powers Have Handled Their Territories
France opted to make all of its remaining territories departments equal to those of continental France, so now sovereign and fully participatory areas of France and therefore the European Union exist in the Caribbean, South America, the Indian Ocean, and the Pacific Ocean. The United Kingdom gave the residents of its remaining territories a choice between independence and continuing association with the Crown and those that chose to remain in association were probably wise to do so since they are generally small and not economically viable on their own. In some situations, the United States has given residents a choice through a referendum process, whereas in other cases, most notably Guam, there is no choice because the territory is deemed too vital to national security to risk it going independent. Ultimately I suppose the point of this section, likely to be referred to by at least one reader as a “manifesto,” (a written statement declaring publicly the intentions, motives, or views of its issuer per Webster’s Dictionary) is that even if you are indifferent to how these areas are governed, at least be aware that they, and those who live there, exist, and be aware of the irony of our nation’s supposed commitment to democracy while we continue to govern people as colonial subjects.
All About Puerto Rico
PR is very much a tropical island and even though my journey was limited to the very urban confines of San Juan, just outside the city are actual living rain forests and once upon a time sugar cane was grown widely on the island. Outside of the urban developments you can expect to find a verdant and luxurious place that includes some of the most fantastic white sand beaches to be found in all the Caribbean. On the plus side for me would be the fact that the island is large enough to host diversions aside from the laying on the beach bored out of my small mind while getting thoroughly sunburned option that is so typical of island nations and so the reason I avoid them in general.
Very much unlike the smaller islands though, which tend to be either French, Dutch, or English, PR is decidedly Latin American it is look and its feel. Although technically a part of the United States, the language in PR is decidedly Spanish through and through, and although you will certainly find people who do speak at least some English, don’t count on it even amongst those in service type jobs such as cab drivers. But then again, that is true in New York City as well. Suffice it to say that anywhere in PR could just as easily be somewhere with a similar climate in the heartland of Latin America, say Costa Rica or Columbia, meaning that a visit to PR gives you a chance to experience another culture completely without having to use your passport.
As physically attractive as PR is, there is a reason that there are more Puerto Ricans in New York City than in San Juan and more islanders living in the 48 states that on the island and the primary reason is the lack of viable economic activity. The island receives a great number of tourists, true, but jobs in that field are not lucrative or stable. Sadly, most of the hotels and resorts are owned by international conglomerates that siphon the profits off to the United States or Europe. It would be largely cost prohibitive to import raw materials for processing or manufacturing since you would have to re-export the finished products to market elsewhere. This leaves the primary economic activity to be agriculture, outside of tourism related work, or waiting for monthly remittances from family working in the 48.
As you would expect, this means that there is high degree of visible poverty in PR, most notable in the clearly substandard housing scattered throughout San Juan and around the island. I was also struck by a clear indicator of a high rate of property crime: barred windows and balconies, even on the second floors of buildings. It seems to me that it would take an enterprising, or determined, or desperate, burglar to break into a second story window, but I can think of no other reason for bars of such strength and thickness to be present. But my clearest indicator of potential trouble was when my Lonely Planet tour book warned me against certain neighborhoods during both day and night hours. Lonely Planet, as some of you may know, is rather infamous for its particularly sanguine view of the world and of poor people in it, to the point that I wouldn’t be surprised if they were to come out with a tour highlights book featuring Sudan, Iraq, and/or Afghanistan any day now. So, for them to warn against part of San Juan meant that it was serious business.
The major attraction in the city of San Juan is without question the old part of the city located on a highland to the west and north of the modern city. This is a place of narrow pastel colored alleyways and cool dark interiors that shelter you surprisingly well from the tropical sunshine outside. The most striking features are the wrought iron balconies on the salt-water taffy colored buildings that abound simply everywhere. If you are a history buff you can view the tomb of Ponce De Leon in the old town cathedral. Based on Ponce being in a tomb, I think it is safe to say that his search for the Fountain of Youth didn’t pan out too well after all. You can view the large and presumably luxurious governor’s house, the oldest in the United States, but you really can’t get very close to it as the streets that lead to it are closed and guarded. If you have a thing for shopping in the same exact stores you could when at home, that can be done here in the old city as well as all the high end mall stores are represented, although it has always defeated me why someone would travel a long distance only to end up in the same exact brand of store one could easily drive, or walk, to at home. But alas, there it is. Do beware though that those huge cruise ships in the harbor will have dumped literally thousands of day trippers into your midst, but also know that the ships leave around 5pm, rendering the experience of the old city in the evening a very different, much quieter and more manageable one once the carnival of Carnival has departed. And of course beware of stores promoting their “cruise ship passenger” specials.
Old San Juan is most clearly defined by its fortifications. These include the city walls, which are massive, tall, and which can be walked along both at the top and the bottom (avoiding the poor drug infested neighborhood along the north side of course) as well as the three forts which defended the city which include: San Cristobal, the largest fortification ever built in the Spanish New World, El Cañuelo, a small fortification built on a harbor island, and finally the iconic San Felipe del Morro whose look out towers are a symbol of the city and the island recognized by millions around the world. The land based forts are easily accessible on foot or by the free trolleys that run through the old city. El Morro, completed in the 16th century, is especially impressive and complete with commanding views of the city and the harbor, just beware that even on a tropical island, this is a windy and not entirely warm place.
One of the great adventures of travel is of course the local cuisine. I had some insight and advice from the indomitable Melissa Athie instructing me to have a mofongo. When I asked what it was, I was chastised for not simply trusting her! OK, fine, I can be brave, so I charged forth to a dark little neighborhood restaurant in Old San Juan and ordered a mofongo. What it turns out to be is a tower of either pounded and fried plantain or cassava (I found the plantain version to be much tastier) filled with either pork, chicken, or shrimp, cooked in an excellent tangy salsa. One was much more that I could eat even though it contained things that I loved. Not only was it filling in the extreme, but it was also uniquely delicious to the point that I had another one for dinner that same night. If you find yourself in San Juan, or in a Puerto Rican eatery on the high upper east side of New York City, be sure to get one. However, I have to say that if you want to eat with and like the locals, be sure to hit the San Juan Sizzler on a Friday night. Trust me, everyone but everyone will be there.
If there was any drawback at all to our visit to San Juan it was our hotel location. We stayed at the new convention center which was as close as we could get to Old Town. Any city that is a cruise ship port regardless of whether it is Seattle or San Juan is going to have a shortage of hotel rooms closest to the port on departure/arrival days and thus it would prove to be for us as well. We couldn’t book into a place in Old Town itself so we took the next closest option, not being interested in the beach front locations since both Tim and I consider sunbathing to be a seriously negative proposition. However, the proximity was relative and everything we wished to do was still at least a $20 trip away considering round trip fares. For our short stay, 2 days, we didn’t opt for a car but I can quite easily see how one would be useful on an island of such size and such diversity. A car would allow you to easily leave the urban life and in a matter of minutes be out in the wilderness and rain forest, or exploring the central mountains or even one of the other metropolitan areas on the island. If you visit for more than a day or two and have an interest in more than just the beach of your resort, a car would be useful. Just remember that in PR gas is sold by the liter, distances are expressed in kilometers, but the Velocidad Maxima signs are rendered in miles per hour.
All About the US Virgin Islands
In the US Virgin Islands (USVI) gas is by the gallon and distances are in miles, but still you drive on the left just like they do in the United Kingdom, Japan, Australia, or New Zealand. You will have a right hand drive vehicle just like in the rest of the United States though, so be prepared for a very strange experience. I have no idea how or why this drive position exists but there it is. Welcome to the USVI! Now honk your horn frequently.
I admit that I was taken aback by my first glimpses of the USVI. Somehow, I think of all islands, especially islands in the Caribbean, as being tropical and lush. And I persist in thinking this even though I know better, having been in the Bahamas and the Cayman Islands, neither of which is lush at all. But, nonetheless, I was surprised to discover that the USVI are relatively dry and scrubby in terms of vegetation. There are no streams or other sources of fresh water on either St. Thomas or St. John, so people have cisterns to collect the rainwater as well as water delivered by truck. This was very different from the apparently well watered island of PR.
Poverty was again in obvious evidence in the USVI and this isn’t really surprising since the only forms of employment are essentially in serving the tourists who either fly in or who arrive on the massive cruise ships in the harbor of St. Thomas. These types of economic mainstays are highly unlikely to result in meaningful or gainful wealth generation for the islanders.
Similar to PR, the USVI are governed by the United States but they do not have a voting representative in Congress and neither do they vote in presidential elections. They have their own governor and island legislature however, which they do vote for. Unlike PR however, they do pay US income taxes, but islanders’ taxes are spent entirely in the islands themselves and this is ensured with their own special versions of tax forms.
Sadly, population pressures are increasing on all of the three populated islands that constitute the USVI, St. Thomas, St. John, and relatively far off St. Croix. St Thomas and St. Croix both boast over 40,000 people, which may not sound like much, but remember that even with narrow and twisting roads, it doesn’t take an hour to drive around the entire island of St. Thomas, and consider that there is no surface water and that the population of the island is routinely increased by a considerable amount every time a ship docks, which is most days, and by the sheer number of passengers flying in for vacations. Waste disposal and fresh water become very precious commodities in such environments.
We were lucky in the weather during our stay, which was very cool, cool to the point that it had at least one waitress bundling up and practically shivering. However, for us, the cool breezes were welcome and pleasant and it helped to ensure a relatively mosquito free environment for lounging on the terrace of our room and drinking Red Stripe beer while enjoying views of St. John, random uninhabited islets, as well as more distant views of the British Virgin Islands.
I arrived in the islands expecting to see no more than three islands and at first was dismayed to discover that the three I knew about, and which I have named above, are far from the total. There are many uninhabited cays and small islands scattered amongst the inhabited ones and viewing these scrub islands through the sunset is a prime experience on the return ferry ride from St. John.
Even though the islands are fairly dry and the landscape is given over mostly to succulents and scrubby bushes, I was most pleased by a seaside forest of ficus trees! Yes indeed, those infamously fussy houseplants seem to have found something very much to their liking in the USVI, especially on the northern shore of St. Thomas right near the beach.
Food takes on an extraordinary importance in the islands because one is never sure what food there will be or how expensive it will be when you find it. We even read an article in one of the local magazines about how locals almost always have to make substitutions in recipes because all the listed ingredients are highly unlikely to be available at the same time and place. I can attest to this shortage of food stuffs and to the outrageous prices of what is there. Grocery stores are small and eclectic. They have what they have and there is no predicting what that will be. And prices? Anyone up for spending $7 on a standard bag of Oreo cookies? If not, and if Oreos are essential to your way of life, you might want to avoid St. Thomas.
I was stunned by the entire wall of devotional candles in a small grocery store space as well as in a place where retail space markets for upwards of $30 per square foot! A wall of candles represents a real estate investment that the sale of said will not recoup. And I was also momentarily surprised by the amount of Spanish one hears spoken on the islands, but then I remembered that folks I worked with in New York City who were from the USVI often spoke fluent Spanish and the relative proximity of PR would help to explain this. After all, it is less than 40 miles from St. Thomas to PR, and the easiest place to fly for major provisioning would be PR. I have to imagine that trade and cultural influences persist to this day and PR is the closest thing they have to mainland shopping options. It is also cheap to get to without very frequent small planes hopping in less than 30 minutes from one location to the next.
In my brief time on St. John, despite the National Park, I found it to be much more frenetic and party atmosphere focused than St. Thomas. That may be because it is smaller and the population is more concentrated or it could be because of the boom in new construction that has taken over the western end of the island, transforming what was only recently a fairly quiet place into a resort hell. Whatever it was, St. John was not a place I felt like lingering.
St. Thomas however was the type of place I didn’t feel guilty about sleeping in as late as I wanted to and then some. There was no place I felt I had to get to, no essential sights I just had to see, no time table to keep. Instead, it was the type of place that felt most truly like what I think is commonly meant by vacation with my mind and body in total neutral. I won’t be turning into an island lover overnight but I have to admit that cool evenings on the terrace on St. Thomas were a perfect resting up for the more vigorous adventures that await us in our next destination, London.